Bike packing through the Ox Mountains, Sligo, Ireland

Bike packing Ireland
Ciaran and Laura hit some great Irish bike packing roads in the west. Above, traditional cottage with whitewashed walls and galvanised roof

Ciaran and Laura set up crankandcog.net to keep family and friends informed as they cycled home to Ireland from Mongolia in the summer of 2015.

Since then it has evolved into a site for the exploring cyclist via Ciaran's and Laura's personal account of their cycling adventures, edible wild foods and travelling the lesser tracks of the North West of Ireland.


By Ciaran and Laura of crankandcog.net

With a longer stretch in the evenings and improving weather at the start of the summer, we decided to go on a short over night loop around the Ox mountains in Sligo, Ireland.

We drove from Sligo to Coolaney, parked the car and did a loop around the mountains; camping the night outside an old shooting lodge near Lough Easkey.

In truth it was a good chance to begin preparing for our bike packing trip to Iceland coming up in June.

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I’d rather discover any issues with the bikes, gear or ourselves along the hills of Sligo rather than the barren plateaus of Iceland.

The mountains are a range of mostly granite rock that borders Sligo and Mayo, on the west coast of Ireland.

Bike packing Ireland
Bike packing Ireland
Easkey bog

The uplands are covered in blanket bogs and forestry, with small rolling farms at the foothills.

It’s a sparse and at times lonely place, particularly around the bogs that surround Lough Easkey on the uplands.

It was here by the ruins of an old hunting lodge that we camped for the night, listening to the winnowing sound of the snipe and the haunting cry of the occasional curlew, which unfortunately is becoming a rare occurrence nowadays.

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The smells in this part of the country lingers long after you’ve left.

The heady fragrance of wild gorse, pine trees, blossoming hawthorn and heather with the occasional whiff of sea air blowing in from the Atlantic is a hypnotising aroma, that can’t be bottled and labelled.

Bike packing Ireland
Bike packing Ireland
The empty boreens at the foothills of the mountains

Not only does the air carry intoxicating smells but also fabled stories, myths and legends of adventure, tragic romance and warrior queens.

The place has a magical energy that makes it easier to understand why our ancestors choose this area of the North West to build so many megalithic tombs, ring forts and cairns.

These structures, which are still visible on hilltops and dotted around the landscape, are still regarded with reverence.

Many of the structures have existed to this day because of  the superstition and belief that tampering with them would bring bad luck and the wrath of the fairies upon oneself.

Bike packing Ireland
Lough Easkey in Ireland


Bike packing Ireland
Target practice


Bike packing Ireland
Daisy path


Bike packing Ireland
It’s just you and me up here!